Wednesday 24 September 2014

The Outer Hebrides, Tarbert to Tarbert and a jaunt around Scarp from Huisinis - by Sonja Ezergailis.




Tarbert is nestled in a valley where North and South Harris come together and can be accessed easily by hopping on a Calmac ferry at Uig on Skye, with a journey time of just over an hour and a half. The usual plan when Liz and I plan a trip is for each of us to come up with a shortlist of 3, chat, debate, um and aaah and then decide on the best course of action based on the prevailing weather conditions. This time around we were blessed with a more settled weather system and in comparison to our Moidart to Morar trip last year thank fully we had no 4 hour portage sessions over a hill!! We were joined by two of Liz’s friends, Pete and Kate who decided that our plan was a good one and who brought the kitchen sink with them……!



Liz, Kate and Pete

Starting in Tarbert (East) is not something to be done at low tide. The mud is thick and mega sucky despite the allure of a landing jetty and steps and there is a good chance of you losing one of your limbs down there if you don’t get your technique and timings right. Liz managed her first unintentional swimming session here too so be warned! Paddling out towards Loch an Tarbert we skirted our way in and out of the many “Eilean”(islands) Rubha (headlands), Geodha (coves, inlets) and Mol Ban (white shingle beaches), sighting 3 otters with an hour of being on the water, awesome.  The morning after our first nights camp was the morning from hell with the worst midges I think I’ve ever experienced in a camp spot. Pete’s ankles and legs looked like a dot to dot and at low tide getting the boats back on the water was agonisingly slow due to the weight of the boats, slime, rocks and the high risk of ankle busting. At this stage in the game the total score for falls so far by day 2: Liz 2, Sonja 2!! Pure relief as we finally escaped to the water and paddled our way towards our southern most point, Renish Point and up to Leverburgh for a provisions top up before our crossing to the Isle of Ensay for the night. 



Mug of tea and an egg butty please…

Its worth mentioning at this point that the Outer Hebrides Guide can leave you wanting for more information about tidal flow at particular points with tidal flow in the Sound of Harris difficult to predict and subject to only one tide per day. Paddling out from Ensay back through the Caolas Sromaigh we made the call to land as the winds picked up and with the swell around decided that Toe Head with wind against tide didn’t look that inviting! The obvious diversion was a walk to the coffee shop at Northton and soaking in the amazing views of Scarasta beach through the isthmus. Proceeding around Toe Head in the morning was the right decision and a new experience as I’ve never paddled through masses of sea foam before! 




One of those lovely spots ...



Toe Head

Crossing the over to the island of Taransay was something I’ve wanted to do for ages ever since cycling past on a cycling trip of the Outer Hebrides and it wasn’t disappointing. Ben wasn’t there (shame!) but 200 deer were, as were turquoise seas, white sand, fantastic views and shocking cold water to swim in. Desperate for a wash after having been devoid of fresh water for a few days, immersion had to be done but it wasn’t as warm as Anglesey!! Paddling up the Sound of Taransay back to Tarbert Liz had a friendly follower for a large section of the journey in the form of a young seal who thought she smelt “lovely”.



En route to Taransay



Saying goodbye to Pete and Kate, once we’d emptied boats, unpacked and repacked Liz and I headed for some showers and then headed off down a dead end road to Huisinis, our camp for the night with a few glasses of wine prior to heading out to go around Scarp the following morning. Bright and early with a sunny day anticipated we headed off clockwise around the south west coast of the island. With swell still rolling around this exposed section of the coastline we couldn’t access things close up but landed on the beach opposite Eilean Cearstaigh on the north coast for a pause and to admire and enjoy our surroundings. There are some amazing examples here of Lewisian Gneiss (very attractive, very old rock, up to 3 billion years old making it the oldest rock in Britain!).








The elusive otter……

Back in our boats we explored north and back to the small island of Fladaigh before heading back down the Sound of Scarp and our journey home and what had been a fairly rare opportunity to paddle in the Outer Hebrides without it howling a hoolie.

Thanks to Liz, Kate and Pete for their company, sharing their wine and Smidge That Midge!



By Sonja Ezergailis.









Tuesday 23 September 2014

The Magic of the Small Isles - West Scotland.

I'd been watching the weather and Scotland had been looking really settled.  I had a few days off coming up and with a little organisation I managed to create 9 days off, 2 of which i used to prep Coastal Spirit and 7 were all mine!

The plan was to drive up and stay with my parents in the Lake District, for the Saturday night and then head up to the West coast of Scotland on the Sunday, to paddle out that evening.  Starting at Glenuig, paddle to Ardnamurchan Point, cross to Muck, Rum, Canna and then East coast Rum, Eigg and back to Glenuig.


I packed quickly and was soon on the water making the most of the spring high water, and into a light F4 Northerly wind.  The light was magic ... now to find my first camp ...



After a cool night I set off for Ardnamurchan Point, the most westerly point on the Scottish mainland.  I found a nice protected sandy beach and pulled in for some lunch and watched two golden eagles, soaring above me.   I then set off on the flood tide for Muck, into a light head wind.


The view from Muck and the warmer weather approaching and little red tent, looking back out to the mainland ...



A Skua, which I saw 12 + or more, particularly on Canna and Sanda ...


Next day I crossed in building sunshine to Rum and onwards to Sanda. Close in Rum looses something of its size and grandeur, looking far more spectacular from further away. My 3rd full day was the best as I hadn't decide on whether to go around Canna or cross back to Rum.  I was leaving that until the morning and based around the weather ....

It was a super looking morning, so still.  I guess the really cool temperatures, were keeping off any midges that may have been about ... so I set off anti clockwise around the island and I wasn't going to be disappointed.  A flock of what I think were 100's of Kittiwake's were circling the sky and doing various acrobatics ...


Then on the North West coast a super sandy and flat potential camp site ... for another time ...


 The basalt columns and the and the beauty of the island was stunning and then to top it all I was treated to 7 eagles, gliding and circling off the western tip of the island ...  fantastic ...






 I headed on, crossing to Rum and paddling down the East coast, with the aim of getting to Eigg ....
with The Cullins of Skye on the left and the mountains of Rum on the right.  I found a super little wild camp on the NE tip of Eigg which gave me a super view and AMAZING sunset illuminating Rum.  Just when I thought it couldn't get any better a pod of 10+ dolphins swam on by ....






It was a stunning morning .... and I packed my P&H Cetus mv, slowly ...



On the Western tip of Eigg I was treated to an amazing sighting of a young golden eagle.  I saw a very large bird 200 mt away flying along the line of the cliffs, so I quickly took my deck off and unzipped my SLR camera from its dry bag, which had been stored in my cockpit.  To top it all it landed just 80mt above me!  I floated about for about 1.5 hours watching and waiting for the shot ... and almost missed it taking off!!




I landed at the main slip way on Eigg, had a couple of mugs of tea and some food and then pondered whether to stay or cross back to the mainland.  After looking at the possible wild camp (which I stayed at before and is close to the main cafe/bar), I decided to avoid the portage, which looked pretty grim and cross back to the mainland.





The crossing was a further treat with just so many porpoises popping up all over the place ...


Not bad for my last night under canvas ....


14 eagles, both golden and white tailed sea eagles (young golden eagles have a fair amount of light feathers so this can add some confusion with identification), 10+ dolphins, many porpoises, super camp sites, 4 super calm days and 166km.   I was totally blown away by the wildlife, by far the best eagle count I've ever had and if its a mix of coastal paddling and open crossings, with stunning views, then the Small Isles fits the bill.  Plus to remove the risk of getting stranded, each of the islands has a ferry which takes sea kayaks and goes form Mallaig.

I decided on arriving back at Glenuig, to stay in the bunkhouse.  This meant I could wash all of my paddle kit and tent, hang it up in the drying room, which would then be ready to collect in the morning and with a hearty breakfast, it would set me up for the 10 hour drive home.  Another group of 4 paddlers, I'd met also briefly on the water were also doing the same and we joined each other for food.  It had been a magic few days and I felt totally refreshed and connected with the world around me ...

More information about The Small Isle's can be found here

Roger

roger chandler
www.coastalspirit.com

expedition paddling 
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sea kayak coaching 



InterMediate Sea Kayaking Anglesey, North Wales

It was a weekend of two seasons with Saturday feeling, grey damp and colder.  While Sunday was bright, with blue skies, sunny and hot!

Mandy, Glynis and Steve were on an InterMediate sea kayaking weekend and after coffee, looking at forecast and discussing what individuals wanted to focus on, we headed across the island to Porth Dafarch.  The intention was to paddle towards an ebbing South Stack, rock hoping as we went and with a f3/4 N/NE the corner of Abra hams Bosom would be the deciding factor whether to push on or stay put ...




We stayed in the area of Penrhyn Mawr as the sea provided what we needed, with a few good rocky channels, working on low braced leaned turns and moving through swell ... Lunch and then into the first hour of the flood, with wind across time we started to get some good conditions ....



I set Mandy and Steve a circuit in the main race, of moving up through the current, which provided a gentle following sea state - something they both had asked to work on (while working in buddies) ... Glynis and my self worked in the inner channel which was more protected.




Sunny Sunday ... and after meeting and comparing both Mandy and Steve's tidal planning, we set off to Soldiers Point to paddle The Stacks on an ebbing tide.    We were just off a neap tide, but due to the previous days N/NE winds North Stack race was a little confused, but all managed very well.  We were soon into the big cliffs, caves and arches ...








The Stacks had been what anyone would have wanted. Steve had rock climbed a number of routes here in the past, so it was well up on his paddling list and with Glynis having been initially inspired to go sea kayaking, after looking down from the cafe area, at South Stack and seeing paddlers below and deciding she wanted some of that.   It was great to see the progressions and the smiling faces of all ...

Roger
roger chandler
www.coastalspirit.com

rough water handling anglesey
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intermediate sea kayaking wales



Monday 22 September 2014

Not an Epic but a Grand day out - Coniston Water, the Lake District


This is one of the first of what I hope is many Blog's from a few of Coastal Spirit's early and active clients.   Providing an insight to the depth and breath of what individuals are up to.  A core element of Coastal Spirit is enabling and facilitating individuals, to be able progress and move towards independence.   BIG thanks to Keith for this.  

The plan was to paddle the length of Coniston and back, I had done it a couple of years ago and Debs had decided that she wanted to do it. This would provide some time in a boat and a chance to paddle an area with splendid scenery and wildlife.

We set off from the car park at the northern corner of the lake reasoning that if the prevailing south westerly wind picked up in the afternoon it would be behind us. We paddled on a mirror smooth lake with the surface being  ruffled by the gentle morning breezes.

We stopped for a break and to rescue a shield bug Debs found floating in the lake but were soon rock hoping by the island which stars in the 1974 film of the Swallows and Amazons book by Arthur Ramsome, first published in 1930. It looks a little smaller in real life!

A short paddle took us to the end of the lake where we watched the dragon files in the reed beds and some of the bird life. We saw a small flock of goosander, great crested grebes, common sandpipers as well swallows and house martins preparing for migration to warmer places.

On our way back we made quick stop on the island to brew some tea. The gentle paddle back to the car gave us time to admire the view of the mountains in the late afternoon sunshine.

It’s a shame some Muppet didn’t take the camera!

By Keith Wilbraham

Friday 19 September 2014

A weeks IntroMediate sea kayaking - Anglesey, North wales

What an amazing week of weather .. hot, mainly and with very gentle winds.  Mainly form the East, which is more unusual, so we've focused on the West and South coastal areas.  IntroMediate is about gently being exposed to wind, swell, current and small surf and we've had all of that, with silky seas, sunshine and even ice creams!!

After coffee and chats with Celia and Linda, we headed off for Treaddour  Bay, to work with outside edged turns and stern rudders




The day worked around putting outside edged turns and stern rudders into different contexts, from calm ares, to some swell, rocky channels and narrow channels ...

Day 2 was from Rhoscolyn to experience some flow, more caves and arches .... and inside leaned/low braced turns.  Throughout emphasis was on use of the body to achieve greater effect and influence the boat ...


Day 3 four options were discussed and both decided on the more technical option of working in the Swellie's, to really grasp leaned turns ...



Day 4 was from Soldiers Point to Abraham's Bosom and back, so the Northern element of 'The Stacks'. We caught North Stack on the last of the ebb, and worked our way through the caves that allowed us in due to the low tide and just bathed in the sunshine .. yet again .. ;)







We had lunch on the South side of Abraham's Bosom and then headed back to South Stack as it was now into the 2nd hour and it was such a lovely rolling ride back towards North Stack, with a few whoops along the way ....



The final day we focused on rescues, self and assisted and did a brief paddle through Penrhyn Mawr in its first hour of flood. There was good chunky and explosive swell running, so we explored form a distance and headed back for some lunch.





It had been a magic week, with lovely people, progress and super silky conditions ....

Roger

Sea kayaking courses anglesey
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IntroMediate sea kayaking