Caves, Arches and Cliffs - Orkney, Scotland.

When originally thinking about a journey on Orkney I had immediately thought of crossing to Fair Isle and on to Shetland.  When I started really planning, it was about 100 NM and the ferry back only went 3 days a week!  The reality was we would need more time and a settled spell.  Based on how the weather was behaving so far this year, a settled spell was unlikely!!

How about crossing the Pentland Firth, a paddle around the Island of Hoy and paddling beneath some to the steepest cliffs in Europe or something else ... After the festival the weather was F5/6 and it looked like we had 3 may be 4 days of fair weather.  The plan was to set out from Stromness and paddle up the West cost of mainland Orkney and hopefully take in the island of Rousay too.  This meant we could pretty much paddle straight from the Stromness campsite and keep things simple as long as we didn't leave to late, as the tide would be against us in the sound and at maximum of 8 knots, our chance of moving against this would be slim to nothing!!

Above looking across to Hoy and the ferry left of Olly ... and below as we left the protection of Hoy a significant swell made our journey exciting and atmospheric ...

Its a truly stunning section of coast which i will be back for one day, when there's less swell running ... There was an amazing knife blade of rock ...

and then on to Yesnaby cove and sea stack ...

The bay below was the Brough of Bigging, and time for a brew and lunch.  A super protected little bay that could work well as a camp ...

More stunning riddled cliffs continued and then a coffee at Skara Bray (well preserved Neolithic  settlement, which was revealed after a big storm and very high tide, which blew away the dune system. It had been buried for over 4000 years!!)  ... and then on to camp .... a great location perched up on the cliff top, with a super view, flat grass and a good fence between us and our neighbour!!

The following morning was not inspiring.  After a good F5/6 overnight, we had no rush to exit.  A relaxed and steady start was the plan and then on to Birsay, to find a cafe  ;)

Birsay cafe was in a super little shot, great coffee and good food, allowed us to drip dry and warm up.  Forecast was for the sun to appear ...  ;)

Around Brough head and the swell eased and allowed us to get closer into the Geo's and caves.  This one was really special and had a load of limestone features in the back ...

Oyce, as the guidebook mentioned provided us with another useful leg stretch and marginal egress.  Great for lunch and a break before heading off to cross to Rousay.

As we left the mainland of Orkney, the sun came out ... we headed North of Scabra Head were we had paddled 6 days before (well worth paddling in this area) and keen to get to Sacquay and Saviskail head before they started to ebb ...

Rousay's coastline had felt less committing, with more places to get out, despite picking up the swell, with the many reefs and low rocky shelves.  Another perfect place to explore again with less swell running!

We landed at Nousty Sand, with 5/6 seals hauled out on one of the sea weed covered areas.  Watching us as we watched them.  A couple disappeared and watched from further out ... what a magic spot  ;)

It was super nice to sit out, cook up and soak in the evening ... The following morning was bright and dry with a f4 SW, hat would help us across the bay, but would eventually become a headwind.  I told Olly about another cafe that I had read about on Egilsay, an island to the west of Rousay.  After all we were on our holidays  ... well  .. opps, wrong island it turned out!

With wind again tide we just got on with what we had to do, taking the rough with the smooth  ... but with the end insight ...

It had been a super trip and it had really opened my eyes to the potential of Orkney and its many surrounding islands.  I'm sure I will be back and next time with a Coastal Spirit sea kayak holiday ... watch this space  ;)

Nice one Olly ...

Roger

explore.  dream.discover

roger chandler
info@coastalspirit.com
www.coastalspirit.com

Getting the window .... paddling the English Channel

Crossing the English Channel by sea kayak, was to be the beginning of Alice, Erin and Marks three month paddle to reach Finland.  A challenge that stands alone as it is and is sort after by swimmers, SUP, rowers, kite surfers and basically any craft, these days!  Being the busiest shipping lane in the world makes the paddle more complicated and hence expensive, as a safety boat is required.

Up at 0630, breakfast, last sort of kit and then 2 hour drive to Dungeness.  Forecast was looking great after our 3 days wait. Erin, Alice and Mark had used their time well, in checking kit and pre boat pack, padding out sea kayaks, additional specfic food and essential haircuts (except 4 Erin).  Big thanks to Alice's parents, for looking after us and feeding us so well ...

Erin in the van on the way, studying the map ...left of her head!!

It was an interesting landscape, with poppies and loads of these tall blue flowers and grasses, mixed in with pebbles and wooded shacks and houses ...

and electric pylons, nuclear power station, a disused lighthouse  .... and packed Ikea bags ...

and a new light house (apparently built because the other was obstructed by the power station). This board walk was great and eased the 40 minute carry, of kit and kayaks to the sea.

 Yep, and then the mist rolled in and the fog horn blew ...eh, we hadn't booked this!!

Kayaks loaded in good time (left at 1100) and off we slowly went, as the mist began to rise and we looked out for the safety boat ... Alice above

Mark calling up Will on the safety boat to check their progress ....

The first of 7 during the day .... and to be honest, their seemed to be far more while we were packing.  Must be the 0830/0900 rush hour thing!

This is what we booked, an oily swell .... although Alice who had been setting the pace and course to paddle (so looking down at the compass) was now feeling sea sick :(

Into the 5th hour and after both Erin and Mark had done a couple of sessions on point, Alice was sick and probably for the best ... they were all tired but had been well prepared for the sun, mmmm I wish I had!!

It was also about this time when the main 7 mt ribs engine cut out ... thankfully Will had a 2nd smaller boat, so he could set up a tow ...more later ....

The last 40 minutes or so and the current had turned against us, producing some rougher water and meaning all had to be on their mark, to ferry glide into the bay.  We were soon through and as Id left my passport behind, I said my goodbyes in the shallows.

Mark, Erin and Alice ... it says something of Alice's determination and working through being sea sick. I never been sea sick but have had a number of clients who have been and ive had to tow them and find  land.  Being towed or the safety boat was an option, but one Alice wouldn't consider  ... fair play to her.  They paddled into the beach, just south of Cap Griz Nez, after 6 hours and 40 minutes and a distance of 25nm, about 50k!

I paddled back out of the shallows towards the safety boat and balanced, actually wobbled my self into the speed boat, grabbed some food and water and snuggled into the bucket seat!

The current now was flowing strongly against us and we were only pulling 4knots, with the broken boat under tow as we headed towards Calais.  Plan was to leave the broken boat so we could whizz back to the UK, happy days ... but, the marina has a tidal sill, that meant we couldn't get in until 1230/0100 ... 2nd problem was that they didn't have enough fuel in the working boat (due to towing).

Well the guys explored a number of options, while I sipped a celebratory beer (thanks Will) and they decided to syphon the petrol out of the broken boat, into a canister and transfer into our working boat and then continue to tow back across the Channel, to leave the broken boat in the marina at Dover ....

Photo above is 1 hour into the crossing, looking towards England, with a ferry on the right and what looked like Manhattan travelling along (the upright columns to the left are are a huge tanker) ... 3.5 hours latter, cold and damp, yep it rained ... we reached Dover ...

With some creative packing my kayak sone fitted well into the boat ...15 minutes latter ...wow, that was quick .... I was back at the start, it was 0100, and another 20 minutes saw all of my kit in the van, kayak on the roof and me curled up in a sleeping bag on the back seats, tired but content!

roger chandler
www.coastalspirit.com

expedition support and sea kayak training
plus
sea kayak courses north wales

Crossing the English Channel ... hopefully on Thursday!!

First of all BIG thanks to Barry Shaw and Phil Clegg for working for me on Sunday, as earlier in the week Monday looked possible to cross to France, but our unsettled British weather changed that ... but the additional time has been useful in completing those never ending small tasks ...


Today we drove to Rye Harbour on the South coast and spoke with Will, the safety boat driver (a legal requirement with it being the busiest shipping lane in the world, so it makes very good sense!) We discussed thoughts and plans ... he suggested Dungness as it keeps us away from the ferry's and allows us to use some of the 3 knot Spring tide.  So Thursday looking good with on the water for 1030.  Means up at 0600 to get to Dungeness (not the most idyllic of settings, with a nuclear power station which we will see behind us for the fist 4 hours!!!).  Swell will have dropped to a more workable 0.6 and improved from a 5 second frequency to  a 9 second. The distance is about 25 nm and we aim to make the most of slack water and the following 6 hours of tide, with a short 5 minute break on the hour.  To further assist with morale, Erin, Alice and Mark will take it turns to set the pace, so each will have an hour up front. (this way no one is at the back for the whole journey) GPS will be used to assist us in maintaining a consistent speed.

United Kingdom - Dungeness  (wave: NWW3 2.7. 2012 06 UTC) [Options]

Forecast      2D  Map   Webcams   Wind reports   Accommodation   Schools/Rentals   Shops   Other...

GFS 02.07.2012 06 UTC Mo 02. Mo 02. Mo 02. Mo 02. Mo 02. Mo 02. Tu 03. Tu 03. Tu 03. Tu 03. Tu 03. Tu 03. Tu 03. We 04. We 04. We 04. We 04. We 04. We 04. We 04. Th 05. Th 05. Th 05. Th 05. Th 05. Th 05. Th 05. 07h 10h 13h 16h 19h 22h 04h 07h 10h 13h 16h 19h 22h 04h 07h 10h 13h 16h 19h 22h 04h 07h 10h 13h 16h 19h 22h Wind speed (Bft) 4 4 4 4 3 3 4 4 4 3 3 3 2 3 3 3 3 2 2 3 2 3 3 3 3 2 3 Wind gusts (Bft) 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 4 4 4 3 4 4 4 4 3 2 4 3 3 3 3 3 3 4

Once across, the English Channel the three of them will continue up the coast towards Calais, and have the next three months to get to Helsinki.  While I get on the safety boat and get whisked back to our start.  

A few moments ago, working through maps, transferring chart info, updating their blog.  From left to right Alice, Erin and Mark .  You can see their route, make a donation on their charities page and follow them on www.paddlingchallenge.co.uk 

roger chandler

www.coastalspirit.com

expedition surport

&

sea kayak north wales courses

Silky seas & porpoises

The paddle challenge guys were now on there last training two days and as there such a lovely bunch and as a contribution to their cause, I threw in my time for an overnight camp free.  The plan involved a fair amount of driving to get vehicles in place, as the starting point was llandudno Bay, past the Great Orme and then a 30k open crossing to Point Lynas and then on to the brick works for our camp.  Day two was too Carmell Head, rescues and crossing to Holyhead Harbour, avoiding ferries and other crafts along the way (they would pass many BIG ports along there journey, so I wanted to give them an insight into it all).  All my photos were taken on my SLR, so no rough water hots, sorry! 

Perfect sea kayak open crossing weather, with Anglesey and Point Lynas in the distance.

There was four large tankers mored up ... they will see many more of these on their journey ...

We paddled past a number of sea birds just enjoying the calm of the day, this one was having a splash and a bath ... and then we came across a super sized bloom of Moon Jellyfish.  Sitting in my kayak looking down at the moving shapes was really beautiful ...yep I was glad I was in my kayak!

Just under 5 hours and we were rounding Point Lynas and the tide had just turned ...phew ...

Within moments of paddling past the point we were joined by a couple of porpoises.  One of was about 0.3mt in length!

The brick works, truly a stunning campsite ... and an 8am start, was a gentle welcome to a stunning morning ... it had been a late night due to shuttling cars ... and a lovely chicken curry, thanks guys for that!

It really was idyllic ... and I could have happy lounged around enjoying the song of the birds and the warmth of the sun on my face ...

Erin, Alice and Mark, in their P&H sea kayaks and creaming up for another sunny day. We paddle out of the bay into Hells Mouth which had a super gentle 0.5mt wave chain.  We were soon greeted by another pod of Porpoises (5 we saw over the day and really close, 4 mts at one point).  Out to Middle Mouse and then on to Cemlyn Bay, for rescue practise.  As there kayaks were reasonably loaded I was keen to put them through their paces.  On the west edge of Cemlyn a small tidal race/overfall works on the ebb and we got there just into the first hour.  Capsize and rolling in the current and assisted rescue if a roll was missed, then into to add some variety ... deck off and legs out eddying in and paddling down before i shouted capsize while one of the others carried out a rescue.  All worked hard despite some initial hesitations.  Mark kindly offered to capsize again and this time it was Alice's to turn to put him back in and manage the situation in 0.5mt chop.

 

We looked for a sunny spot out of the light breeze, and choose this rocky small island, for some lunch and an opportunity for them all to consider were they were and how long to Holyhead Harbour.  Two seals watched us while we sat, eat and chatted and many terns flew by ... We hit Carmell Head at full pace, with f2/3 wind against tide an exciting fast ride with 2.5 mts curling tops and then set out towards a tall chimney.  One Irish ferry came into the port ahead of us and as we neared, it was clear we had picked up the eddy stream again, but this time we just had to deal with it!

Close to the entrance of the Port we held ground for 10 minutes as a ferry loomed on the horizon and then passed us by.  Heads down we paddled across the entrance and then along the inside of the breakwater towards our beach.

It had been a super two days, with natural stuff happening and tasks given, to really get the group working.  They had done really well and with just over 10 days to go before the beginning of their adventure, they still have some time to put finishing touches to personal outfitting of the sea kayaks, food and what works practically, some further personal rescue practise and developing an effective group pace.  Their blog and further information about their adventure can be seen and followed here 

I look forward to paddling the English Channel with the three of them on the1st July, winds permitting and will let you know how it all goes!

roger chandler
www.coastalspirit.com
north wales sea kayaking
&
expedition support