Helmsdale - Corpach
Day 17, 4 May, Helmsdale to Balintore, 49k
After
having spent another rainy storm day (day 6...) off the water (5h in a Cafe..
thanks "Thyme and Plaice") - we now really needed good long days on
the water so the blog lost its priority somewhat ...
Rested
and well fed we paddle into a headwind along the coast to Brora. We seem to be
crawling along, and it takes 3 hours to cover the first 13 km. Just before we
reach Brora the wind drops – happy days! (Guess who said that?)
We decide to make the 18km crossing to Tarbat Ness in the gentle NE swell. Our
plan to land shortly after Tarbat Ness is destroyed by the swell pounding on
various jetties. We prepare ourselves for a nightnav, dig out headtorches and
have a quick food break. It is a fantastic evening with fantastic light and
silver clouds – a stunning sunset-lit sea and landscape surrounds us as the
light changes from one minute to the next. We cover about further 10 km, keeping
an eye on the shore for possible landing spots. Just as it begins to get dark
we spot a green light ahead and the shadow of a harbour wall. Shandwick Harbour
/ Balintore! Despite the fact we were all quite excited about the idea of a
night nav, we are actually quite relieved to slip through the narrow entrance –
Anita managing a wave well that tries to surf her into the harbor wall …
Boats
out, tents up at 23.00, thanks Roger for the quick freeze dried meals :-), and
bed just after midnight.
Days 18 – 20, 5-7 May, Balintore to Cromarty
13k
Up early
the next morning to beat the wind to Inverness. The wind picked up early and as
we reach Cromaty we decide to stay here and sit out the storm that is forecasted
for the next two days. Great pizzas at Sutors Creek cafe and a very comfortable
rental cottage are the perfect infrastructure to get ready for the next lap of
trip to Inverness and the Great Glen.
Day 21 – 25, 8 – 12 May, Cromarty to Corpach –
The Great Glen 42k + 57k + 32k
Thanks
to another early start the tide carries us down the Moray Firth to Inverness.
Just before the first lock we spot a Bottlenose Dolphin! Good bye East coast,
we are in the Great Glen! Very soon - after 500 m - it becomes obvious we are
more used to sea paddling than portaging ... and we destroy Roger’s trolley and
learn the hard way there is no need to portage a swing bridge ;). Campsites in
the Great Glen provide us with the luxury of showers, nice flat grassy patches
for our tents and comfortable picnic areas, with even a floating pub to meet
Sonja and Liz!
Loch
Ness in mirror-like conditions seems endless. The vision of ice creams in Fort
Augustus motivate us for the last couple of miles. Unfortunately the best it
could deliver was from the local garage! Loch Oich – more interesting and very
picturesque - and Loch Lochy in wind and deluging rain. By the time we reach
Neptune’s Staircases we have become experts in portaging, but are nevertheless
glad we pass the flight of locks downhill!
At the
sealock at Corpach we have a short celebration jig in the pouring rain - we are
back on the West coast and back on the sea!
190 km
away from Skye Bridge and yet another low pressure and storms are forecasted.
In the heavy rain and treading in the already very soggy grass by the locks we
vote for accommodation in Smiddy's bunkhouse - another 2 days land-bound ...
With our
end date drawing closer and closer it will take an extraordinary finish to
reach Skye Bridge on May 16th - or even 15th because of the next front coming
in.
(by
Anita and Sarah)
The last three days …
Day 26, 13 May 2015 Corpach to
Lochaline, 68k
We got our boats ready on the beach the night before for an “on the
water for 06:00 start” – this means alarms at 04.30. Since we were staying in a
hostel Roger cooked scrambled eggs (from his own chickens in Wales delivered by
“Sonja express” – thanks Sonja!) and beans on toast. Yummy! We’ve a long way to
go (190 km) and only 4 days left for the trip, with only 3 days before the
weather is forecast to be horrendous again … A race against the weather!
Despite our efforts we’re off and on our way 15 minutes late … Paddling
down to the Corran Narrows we have good tide flowing with us and we quickly
catch this up and arrive early. Sadly though there isn’t much flow through the
gap (no eddies for Tavi to play in ).
We paddle on past Shuna Island and to the top of Lismore Island where we call
into Port Appin for a very nice lunch with Damian’s parents …
Sarah’s skeg cord has snapped and after lunch she starts a repair. It ends up being really difficult and takes over an hour. Our lunch break turns into 3
hours, rather more than we’d hoped for!
We set off eventually for the Sound of Mull, another 20 km on, passing
first the north coast of Lismore with the view to the south slowly opening up.
The tide is with us until the Sound but then it’s against us. Despite the fact
that it’s now quite late we press on, camping next to an abandoned castle at
Ardtornish Point just before Lochaline. It’s our largest distance to date … 68 km.
It is a beautiful spot and we enjoy our evening meal watching the porpoises
play in the tidal stream close by.
Alarms are set for 04.30 again … we need to get going in good time to
reach our goal – we’re to be ready and paddling at 06.00 again.
Day 27, 14 May 2015 Lochaline to
Gortenachullish - Back of Kappoch, 74km
We’re early! Off paddling by 05.50 and making our way towards Tobermory
on the Isle of Mull with the wind on our backs. At Tobermory we stop for the
real essentials of life: water, egg and bacon rolls, and coffee. Mmmm.
Leaving the brightly coloured houses behind the wind drops and we round
Ardnamurchan Point in a very light breeze. Yachts beyond out at Rum and Eigg
show more wind and a very different direction. We paddle round the point into a
light headwind … and here have a planning session afloat. The forecast from the
café in Mull points us towards Arisaig (I knew visiting that café would be
worthwhile!) instead of out to Eigg – our original plan.
We start the 20 km crossing and know the early finish for the day we’d
hoped for has evaporated. We’re by now well used to crossings and settle into
our usual 5 mins stop per hour – I even find one of my renowned rocket fuel
bars to munch!
Shortly after leaving Adnamurchan Lighthouse we spot flocks of birds in
the distance. As we move closer we are surrounded by hundreds of Manx
Shearwaters, diving and circling around us. Later during the crossing we even see
a Minke whale – what an amazing sight that makes a great day perfect!
We paddle on past the islands near Arisaig heading for the public
campsite at Back of Kappoch. By our last kilometre we’re all pretty
tired (maybe not Roger?), and I for one bizarrely have blisters on my heels as
well as sore feet. It’s our longest paddling day (again!), 74 km. We are rewarded by a great sunset from
our tents and a wonderful view of white sandy beaches and the islands.
And I have to say a big thank you to Roger for the gnocchi he cooked that night
as I was struggling with doing tidal planning for the next day …
Day 28, 15 May 2015
Gortenachullish Back of Kappoch, to Skye Bridge, 48km
For me this was the hardest day of the expedition. Not it seems because
my body’s tired – even Roger commented he found it hard to keep up with me at
one point – but rather because my brain is fuddled by lack of sleep, which
means it’s really hard to concentrate.
We’d negotiated a lie in – to 05.30, so I wake up at 03.30 instead.
Nice one body – thanks! The forecast is for F4-6 increasing to 6-7 later in the
day with the wind behind us from the south.
We start off paddling to Mallaig, 10 km to the north, making short work
of it as we’re all surfing with the wind behind. We stop briefly for a snack.
We paddle onto the Loch Nevis crossing – apparently called “Heaven”. The
original plan is to work 2-3 km along the coast until the loch narrows and then
cross. I suggest it looks good where we are and so we cross straight over. By
the end of the crossing waves are hitting us from behind and the side and in my
fuddled state I’m regretting the suggestion.
We paddle onto Loch Hourn and the crossing known as “Hell”. At this
point if I’d have been alone I’d have got off the water as I feel really tired.
I try and negotiate a shorter crossing by working along the coast in the same
way as had been suggested at Heaven, but Roger’s not keen. I suspect that F6-7
forecast at 16:00 is in his mind. We decide to do the straight crossing to the
Sandaig Islands: actually it’s only 6 km. This is where I discover it’s sleep
I’m lacking rather than my body being tired, and I find I’m leaving Roger and
the group behind and have to slow down …
It’s paddling I would normally have loved – ending with nice big waves
near the islands with the odd brace needed here and there – and even feeling as
I do, I manage to enjoy it!
We head then for some pylons beyond Kyle Rhea and I rally sufficiently
to play briefly on the fast flow (note to self – definitely worth another
visit!). Inquisitive seals come to check us out and see us out of the sound. The
last bit as always feels furthest and the wind starts to pick up as we cross
Loch na Beiste. But we eventually arrive at Skye Bridge before the wind really
starts howling, and we head for a café.
Unloading the kayaks, it seems unreal that we have spent the last 4
weeks paddling in so many different conditions, the impressive wildlife and
stunning scenery, sometimes pushing us to our limits. It will take a while to
sink in …
We’ve done it – the Roof of Britain – well done all! It’s been a truly epic
trip and we owe huge thanks to Roger for making it happen!
Back in the café I insist we are having 2nd lunch, (however the others are very happy with this!!) despite
the fact that it’s 4pm! I know I’ll need another meal soon …
(by Tavi)
Many shared
our enthusiasm during the last 4 weeks. We owe thanks to the people supporting
us during the trip. Special thanks to:
-
Sonja, Craig and Barry for providing us with
forecasts (even if the contents didn’t always please us ;) !) and other useful
information.
-
Sonja for the amazing cake
,
eggs and more!
-
Willy for the much needed lift out of our “trap”
in Smoo Cave
-
Everyone who donated – you helped Tavi raise
more than £1300 for Alzheimer’s Research UK
-
last but not least Roger – for just everything!!
To read the first Blog of the expedition, have a look here
Roger would like to finally thank :
~
Hilleberg the tent maker for a solid solo tent
~
Kokatat paddling wear for reliable paddling kit
~ Sarah, Anita and Tavi for putting the hard work in, even when the final goal looked far away!
EXPLORE. DREAM. DISCOVER
