Roof of Britain (RoB) 2017 - Fort William to Inverness, the 'Salty' Version!

The plan had always been to do the complete loop, linking up the West and East coast with the Great Glen.  A journey of 800km.  Yet time was running out for us and at Thurso on the North coast and informal decision, or was it a thought, that was made to get to Inverness. This way we had a clear start and finish and a salty version of the RoB.  This felt right and

as long as bodies held out and the weather played ball it was possible.  

The start at Corpack with Ben Nevis in snow!!

My Facebook feed from the 16th April 2017, has the daily action here.   I'm going to keep this Blog to the bare bones, with a summary, facts and my favourite ten photos.

looking up the Sound of Mull

• From GPS our total distance was 727km
• 27 days in total with 8 days off, with 6 storm days and 2 days were we arrived earlier and decided to use the benefit of a public camp or caravan sight, to wait out the storm.  In both cases this really paid off, so good sleep was had and we could each refuel.

Tobermory, Isle of Mull, with Don, Craig, Alan, Gerry and Roger

Sunrise, just North of Tobermorry (Mull) and our first early start

• Longest day was day 25, with 67km and this was Wick on the East coast to 8km South of Helmsdale.  6 hours on a flood Spring tide and then paddling close in along a spectacular coastline with thousands of sea birds. A 13 hour day.

Gairloch, after a snow storm

• Shortest distance was day 1, after leaving a car to Inverness and packing the boats at Corpack (N of Fort William) to the Corran Narrows - 16km

• Our most efficient distance was our last day.  Day 27 Cromarty to Inverness, 45km in under 5 hours!
• 11 wild camps,   7 public camps, 1 at a hostel, 4 in a caravan, 2 accommodation connected to a pub and 1 night on a floor (brother in law of Alan's).

Arrival at the stunning Sandwood Bay NW Scotland

Sandwood Bay was totally magic!

• On 17 beaches we did a 2 minute Nurdle hunt and we found none.  This came as a surprise, but is great!  We also only found 2 cotton ear buds and details have been sent to FEDRA and the Great Nurdle Hunt

Duncansby Head and we're on the East coast!

• We saw many sea ducks, red and black throated divers as well as great northern, 2 white tailed sea eagles, 7-9 otters, 4 pods of dolphins (common, risso and 2 bottlenosed), submarine motoring along 1-2km North Rona, 2 artic skua's, puffins from around the Gairlock area and my first time hearing puffins calling was at Thurso.  Many other sea birds with the most prolific on the east coast south of Wick.
• We camped/bivied at Sandwood bay (last sandy beach before Cape Wrath and landed for a break at Kervaig (first sandy beach on the North coast).  Both are in amazing locations and two places I thought it would take along time to get the right weather, to be able to visit!!

Bringing the journey to an end at Inverness ...

As with most big trips, there's is always those that help to keep things moving forwards and after so many snapped tent poles with Gerrys F10 tent, Kate Duffus and a chance meeting helped with similar diameter poles.  The hostel at Lochinver was ace in receiving a new set of poles.  Sue (Alan's friend), was a great help and took both Gerry and Alan across to collect while we were off the water in the Summer Isles.  Alan's brother in law did us proudly when we arrived in Cromarty at 20:00 at his front door, having never received a text and the pub had stopped serving food!  Thanks for the many super messages on social media of information, support and encouragement.

Below is a short film I had edited and created. 

Big thanks to Sonja for managing the bookings while I was away and doing a super job.

Dates for the Roof of Britain and One Big Adventure 2018 (1BG) will be out soon, so if your interested and want more information, have a look here or email me at roger@coastalspirit.com 

Thanks, 

Roger

The Roof of Britain and hunting for Nurdles!

On the 15th April 2017 we begin our journey to paddle around the 'Roof of Britain' (RoB) a journey of 400 nm and with some of Britain's most exciting, committing and beautiful coastline.   Basically its the top half of mainland Scotland, involving Cape Wrath and the Pentland Firth.  

The team is made up of Alan from Sheffield, Don from Portsmouth area, Gerry form the Isle of Man, Craig from Anglesey and myself.

Thanks to Tavi for this original creation!

We have had two intensive training weekends over the last 10 months and with a chilly overnighter mid January, to test kit, tents and equipment.  Back in 2015 we got surprised by snow on a couple of beaches!!  Since January action plans have been further worked on and emails have flown back and forth.  

Where we will start the RoB, will depend on the weather at the time and for the forecast for the following week. We have 4 weeks in total to work with and to get as far as we can and complete the loop if the weather and bodies allow.   

In 2015 we lost 10 days to storms and ended up with some big mileage days to try and complete the loop.  It was a truly stunning expedition with a couple of exceptional mammal sightings - three Orca on the North coast and a Minke Whale, South of The small Isles (on the West coast).  If you want to read our 2015 adventure then a couple of Blogs area here:

On the North coast of the RoB and a totally magic day with a BIG ground swell and a super sunny blue sky day.

The other exciting news is we have team up with FIDRA to map Nurdles (raw plastic).  Nurdles, really, yep!  One month ago I had never heard of these and just thought it was broken down and worn out plastic.  As I became aware of the problem I started to see then more easily on the sandy beaches near the high water mark. The plan is as we paddle the RoB, on each beach we land, the intention is to do a 2 minute collection.  As well as observe and record is there more, so as to provide further evidence of how bad the spread is.  Hopefully this will further support the work this company is doing in education and management.

Ive since learnt its better to ware gloves due to the toxins!

So, I wonder what weather we will experience in April/May 2017?   We will keep a weekly updates via Twitter and Facebook on our progress and if the weather is bad, then there will be time for a blog!

Hoping for many days of the sun on our faces and the wind on our backs - wish us luck  ;)

The Roof of Britain Coastal Spirit Rapid Development Expedition 2015

Day 1. 18th April, Skye Bridge to Rubha na h-Uamba, 10km

We were unsure whether to start at Helmsdale on the E coast or at the Skye Bridge. The good forecast though convinced us to start on the west. Dropped cars at either end of the canal section. Seals saw us off at the Skye Bridge and then paddled 10km in beautiful sunshine to camp at the bothy.

Day 2. 19 April, Ribha na h-Umba to Longa Island, 48km

Golden sand and golden sunshine with a F2-3 headwind. Heard and saw many Great Northern Divers.

Day 3. 20 April, Longa to Tanera Mor, 47km

Saw our first otter as we left camp and the first puffins of many shortly after. A day of tailwinds and surf behind making really good time. Short stop at Priest Island, beautiful spot with many Storm Petrels. 

Day 4. 21 April, Tanera Mor to Oldany Island, 48km

Bouncy, lively conditions for our first big headlands made this our best day yet! Nice bit of tide race surfing off the headland just before the Point of Stoer then through an awesome channel between the Old Man of Stoer and the mainland. Finished with some great ditch crawling and exploration at Oldany Island, our most picturesque campsite yet and very tropical. 

Day 5. 22 April. Oldany Island to near Kinberlochbervie, 35km

To Scourie to get weather info and plan Cape Wrath. The only window is Saturday and this means a 4.15am on the water start to get around. So onward through the Bad Call Islands to position us as far north as we can. A pod of dolphins here made our day!

Day 6. 23 April. Kinberlochbervie.

A day off for us all. (Except Roger, who woke up at 3.30am and then each 30 mins to see what time it will be light for us to leave tomorrow). Currently in a warm hotel in Kinberlochbie contemplating deserts. Life is good!!

One BIG Adventure - The Roof of Britain 2015

Doing Big trips can be difficult to make happen.  Finding the time, people and similar motivation, is one of the reasons RDX was created.  After Roger had experienced similar difficulties, he then wondered if there was others out there that would be interested in a Big sea kayaking adventure

The Rapid Development Sea Kayaking eXpedition aims to fast track individuals in an active and practical way towards achieving something really BIG.  Roger's hope is that  individuals then use the experience and learning, as a spring board towards planning their own adventures, in the future.

In 2015 One Big Adventure begins mid April through to mid May, and the plan to paddle the Roof of Britain, 400nm and covering some of Britain's most spectacular coastline.  More can be read here

The team is made up of Sarah who runs her own sea kayaking company in Switzerland,  and Anita who is also from Switzerland.  Plus Tavi and Damien form South Wales.  The four days training was an opportunity for us all to meet and work with each other, share food, learn new and practise familiar skills. 

We were based at the super Anglesey Outdoors, run by Penny and Roger (another one!) and meeting up on the Sunday night.  With food at the paddlers return and then an informal presentation from Zoe Robinson, on her learning and experience of paddling the roof during the month of August, this last year.  Thanks Zoe.  

Monday and the plan was to go and paddle the Stacks and do lots of rescues assisted and self, rolling, surfing and various circuits.  I was keen to work on moving up against flow, because its highly likely that we will have to do that to get to significant headlands at slack water, as well as making best use of the day.

Its highly likely at times we wont be able to easily land, or landing may take us further into a bay, that we don't really want to go into (extra distance), plus landing adds on more time.  Its all about finding the right balance ... and in this case literally, as Tavi demonstrates a confident standing pose.  Yep, you've got it, peeing form a sea kayak for girls ...  A task each buddy pair has now got 4 months to further practise!

It had been a great day achieving what i had hoped for and the feeling that we had made the most of conditions.

Day two - after calling into Summit to Sea and seeing Pete, we headed off to Point Lynas with the hopeful plan of a down wind run to Moelfre.  I say hopeful as it was forecast F6-7 from the North and over 2mt.

It was a chunky swell but the winds were in out favour, blowing a lighter f4-5.  We set up the shuttle with the vehicles and after a short snacking lunch set about a few circuits into wind, down wind and checking all were ok with the conditions.  The flood had begun, so we had to make a decision on to go or not.  We went for go.  The flood had pushed up the incoming swell and increased the wave height to 3-4 meters.  It was exciting and as we paddled level to the headed land the east was looking calmer and smaller, we turned and headed around the headland, whooping as we went ... ;)

Tavi and Damien above, and me trying to capture and provide a feeling of the swell ...  Sarah in Orange and Anita in blue, below ...

I had been really chuffed with the whole team and how they had managed the day in super conditions and a day I feel that has put a good credit on the tab!  To further add to the day Diane Lee, provided a presentation on her paddle around Wales, which was the first big expedition provided by Coastal Spirit.  And provided a super gift to further help with our training ... a bottle of single malt whisky.  Big thanks Di!  

Day three - the winds were due to settle and our plan was to head off towards Bardsey Island - island in the tides ... and paddle from Aberdaron, cross the sound and paddle clockwise around Bardsey, then back across and on to Porth Oer.

It was a super calm (despite the previous days storm) and amazing light, throughout the day.

Above Tavi and Damien paddling around the Western end of the island ...

Looking back at Bardsey Island and my calmest paddle out and back ever!!  Big Thanks to Steve, Jo and Ben for the good mugs of tea.

The forth day was Holy Island and after discussions the plan was to be up at early and on the water for 0800 at Soldier's Point, going clockwise across Holyhead harbour and towards the inland sea.  A another classic trip and a super calm forecast.

It was a cold start to the day, but a super sunrise, just peaking through the clouds ....

We were early, so we held back for 30 minutes and landed.  With 20 - 30 minutes before slack water (yep hard to believe this is just before slack water!!) ... Tavi led the team through Stanley Embankment ... and we all got fired out the other side.

On to 4 Mile Bridge ...

We crossed slowly and landed at Porth Ruffydd, for some lunch and to allow the first of the flood at Penrhyn Mawr to pick up.  Back on the water it was so gentle and we hung about for another 30 mins, exploring the flow ...

Then headed on back to Soldier's Point and Anglesey Outdoors, for mugs of tea and action plans and reflections on a super few days.

Roger
www.coastalspirit.com