Skye’s the limit! Expedition prep time again… by Tavi Murray

Skye’s the limit! Expedition prep time again…                 

The last few weeks have been jam packed – it’s now just days before we head north to circumnavigate Skye. The Isle of Skye has some 280 km of the most amazing and committing coastline in Britain. We’re paddling in aid of Alzheimer’s Research UK as two of us have parents with dementia.

I’d been planning to circumnavigate Skye since last summer, but unfortunately the person I was hoping to paddle with had an accident in December that meant she could no longer commit to the trip. So at that point I set about assembling a new team with the aid of facebook … “Team Skye” now consists of a friend, the friend of a friend and a responder to a Facebook advert! Hopefully at the end of the trip we’ll all just be friends!

Introducing Team Skye: Kevin Brown, Fiona Buttrey, Anita Daimond, Tavi Murray.

Over Easter we all met for the first time on Anglesey to paddle together. We spent a day planning (big thanks to Penny and Stan at Anglesey Outdoors for the loan of the dining room) and 2 days paddling, getting some distance in as well as practising rescues etc. We even managed a forward paddling clinic!

Since then our nights and weekends have been busy with expedition preparation. We’ve been getting in some fitness paddles, pounding the canals as well as on the coastline round Anglesey and south Wales. Kevin described the Manchester canal as feeling like a Scalextric track! I’ve managed two 40km paddles on the canal as well as some evening paddles, fewer long paddles than last year but I hope I’ve regained some of my fitness! We’ve all been to the pool practising our rolls and self-rescues too.

We’re a group with complex food needs … Various allergies and a vegetarian and a vegan team member means we need to take our own food and not rely on the small shops on Skye. We’ve arranged resupply so we don’t have to carry it all at once, and now our food has been purchased and packed. Maps have been made and we’ve all practised packing our boats. My new boat gives a bit of extra space but has needed lots of small jobs doing to get it ready from drilling the skeg to installing new deck elastics.

I think we’re ready for the off! We’re travelling north to Skye this Friday 22^nd April and hope to start paddling on Sunday. Fingers crossed for some settled weather – we’d like to get some of the committing west and north coast done as soon as possible. As yet though both our start point and the direction we’ll go is weather dependent!

I’m so much looking forward to the stacks and caves and reputedly amazing coastline … we’ll post on facebook as much as we can as we make progress– send Tavi Murray a friend request if you’d like to follow us!

If you’d like to make a donation to Alzheimer’s Research UK we have a justgiving page: https://www.justgiving.com/TeamSkye.

By Tavi Murray

This is an independent trip that Tavi has organised separate from Coastal Spirit and Roger wishes Team Skye a successful and rewarding experience.  Paddle safe and enjoy the journey.

I look forward to hearing about your adventures on your return.

Thanks Roger.

PS: Tavi is on Coastal Spirit's mentoring programme.

The Roof of Britain with Coastal Spirit.....Series Catch up Episode 4!

Day 14. Friday 1st May 2015. 62km.
Thurso to Staxigoe via the Pentland Firth and Duncansby Head.

Long awaited, the Pentland Firth and the Men of Mey. Our biggest day so far, but even so we had a 4 hour siesta in the sun. It was a day that didn't go to plan. We started early 05:45 to round Dunnet Head at 08.00. All good, we had the flow with us and we were ahead of plan. Dunnet Head was golden in the sunshine. Happy days!

We paddled to the beach at Little Clett and had a short break on the pretty beach. From here on though despite the main tide flowing to the east we were in continual back eddies against us and the planned timings began to unravel.

Heading for the Merry Men of Mey tiderace it was clear we were going to be late. We worked hard against flow. Beasting #1! 20 minutes late at the tiderace and 40 minutes before slack and there was no tiderace to be seen, just rocks. Disappointing!

From here we could see that the main Firth was already flowing against us so we worked along the shore hoping we could sneak around Duncansby Head against the flow. Arriving 50 minutes after the tide turned it was clear we had no chance: the flow was moving like an express train right next to the headland. We retreated for that enforced siesta in the sun at the bay of Sannick.

We went for a stroll up to the lighthouse and saw our first glimpses of the east coast. It looked stunning!

We decided to head up to Duncansby Head an hour an a quarter before the tide turned to flow with us fully expecting to sit in the eddy waiting. Surprisingly flow had moved offshore and while the main tiderace was still pumping we paddled around the headland easily.

Duncansby Head is the most AMAZING gateway to the east coast. Stunning stacks, magical channels, caves to die for and arches. Simply mind blowing!! Can't recommend this section of coast highly enough!!!

But for us onwards, first to Skirza Head and then at 18:00 a suggestion, shall we just paddle towards the headland Noss Head in the distance? It has over falls and is a tidal gateway and would be open. It looked a long way off. We decided to go for it and reassess after 90 minutes. But to be honest there was no plan B as a major surf beach stretched along the shore... We had to make it!

And so we started the 2nd beasting of the day! Luckily I had a good stock of snacks for our hourly breaks including one that turned out to be rocket fuel, a dark chocolate and marzipan bar! Mmm!

Just over an hour and a half later and we were there, and then onwards around the headland into Staxigoe just before dark. A lovely campsite with flat grass, picnic benches and sand. Despite the 14 hour day we were to stay here for less than 10 hours before setting off again. The weather isn't being kind to us, but we're really using what we have. We were all really pleased with the 62km mileage. A record for most of us. Again the day ended with big smiles and a few aching muscles!

Day 15 Saturday 2nd May 2015

"We are up early again to beat the wind to getting to Helmsdale or as far as we can get. Ice in our mugs shows that temperatures were well below 0 in the night. The sun is welcome on the horizon as we pack boats and head south. The wind is light to start with, pushing us gently - but forecasts report 5 Bft. and swell from East for the afternoon. The colours are amazing today, sunshine, and various blues in sky and water. The cliffs reflect the waves creating clapotis and haystacks that explode in the air. We plough through in our loaded kayaks. The cliffs in many shades of brown, lots of greens with yellow flashes of gorse bushes on the hills. Waterfalls come down, adding to the perfect scene. We stop at Lybster harbour - lunch at the coffee shop in the sun!! Once a busy fishing harbour it's a quiet place today. We also fill up our water supplies before we head on.
At Dunbeath we decide to push on. Its 2pm and the wind is picking up a bit, but we want to try and reach Helmsdale. The 20km that follow are exciting paddling! The stacks and cliffs awesome, thousands of seabirds soaring around us, the waves and swell keep us alert, ready to brace or accelerate at the right moment.
Anita spots 2 dolphins close to her boat! The last 5 km are in a tail wind of F5 - with breakers crashing onto the reefs to our right. All of a sudden Sarah sees Tavi's boat upside down - she got knocked over by a big breaker. On the 3rd attempt she rolls up -after 50km, with a loaded boat, having a big waterbag in the cockpit and the helmet on the backdeck! - well done Tavi!!
We reach Helmsdale just as the wind picks up more. We land and find a campsite spot out of the wind behind a bridge pillar. What a day! 57 km in these conditions - sea kayaking at its best!
And what's more, we are now half way around the Roof. Celebratory fish and chips with a beer for all!"


Sarah, Anita and Tavi.

Coastal Spirit and The Roof of Britain...the next instalment.....

Day 9. 16th April. Smoo Cave to Durness, minus 3km.

Getting out of a hole! Smoo Cove turned out to be a bit of a trap for us: accessible only at high tide and when the surf is small. Pounding waves were breaking across the entrance as the surf was 7-9ft. No way out by sea. Another solution was called for. On the way back to the hostel we spotted a van with roof rack and a trailer by a house. Five minutes later we had arranged that our hero Wily would transport out boats back along the shore to a small surf beach at Durness. We just had to carry them up the steep steps at Smoo first! And note we went backwards... No holes in this trip! At last we were good for go!

Day 10. 27th April, Durness to Neave Island.

This was a truly awesome day sea kayaking. Big, big swell and sunshine were the flavours making up one of the best days ever! We started off launching our ice-covered boats into 6ft surf - Anita took a big one and nearly went vertical!

Once we were out to sea the snowy mountains made a perfect backdrop to the sparking aquamarine waves. We detoured into Loch Eriboll to kill some time before hitting Whiten Head about an hour before slack. The swell out at the headland was about 9ft with superimposed smaller waves. Conditions were fun, fun, fun and still the sun shone! :) Whiten Head has amazing sea stacks and was a warm golden colour in the sunshine.

A late lunch stop on a sandy beach on Rabbit Island before pushing onto Neave Island, a 5* campsite (max) on Anita and Sarah's scale. The sun set on the sandy beach and we all had big, big smiles.

Day 11. 28th April.

"Early start from picteuresque Coomb Isl. - we are on the water heading for Farr Point at 5.30 am.

Headland - hopping to Ardmore Point, we are on course for Strathy Point! Its a beautiful morning with winds lighter than the 4 Bft. predicted, and the swell a bit less than yesterday. About 4 km's from Strathy Point we see water spouts ahead of us.. Dolphins!? The fins look quite big even from a distance and seem to be coming straight towards us.. They pass us and suddenly Roger who is closest, shouts "Orcas, they are Orcas!!". What anamazing sight! And a first for all of us.
We pass the lighthouse at Strathy Point and head towards Portskerra. Westwind picks up now, pushing us towards the Nuclear Power Station. At the slowest speed ever - we pass. Brims Ness onto the impressive cliffs on the coast to Holbourn Head. Hail and sunshine mix - crazy weather!
After a long day afloat - 52 km - we find a site by the riversmouth. Landing and setting up camp in wind and rain - as Roger and Anita get the tarp up and supper gets going, life starts to look a bit more comfortable.

Now in Thurso, we have grown to really like this friendly town and its Café Tempest! We are sorting ourselves, shopping waterproof socks, drying kit in the F 5 wind and stocking up for the next lap - Dunnet Head and Pentland Firth. looking good for Friday! "

The Roof of Britain Coastal Spirit Rapid Development Expedition 2015

Day 1. 18th April, Skye Bridge to Rubha na h-Uamba, 10km

We were unsure whether to start at Helmsdale on the E coast or at the Skye Bridge. The good forecast though convinced us to start on the west. Dropped cars at either end of the canal section. Seals saw us off at the Skye Bridge and then paddled 10km in beautiful sunshine to camp at the bothy.

Day 2. 19 April, Ribha na h-Umba to Longa Island, 48km

Golden sand and golden sunshine with a F2-3 headwind. Heard and saw many Great Northern Divers.

Day 3. 20 April, Longa to Tanera Mor, 47km

Saw our first otter as we left camp and the first puffins of many shortly after. A day of tailwinds and surf behind making really good time. Short stop at Priest Island, beautiful spot with many Storm Petrels. 

Day 4. 21 April, Tanera Mor to Oldany Island, 48km

Bouncy, lively conditions for our first big headlands made this our best day yet! Nice bit of tide race surfing off the headland just before the Point of Stoer then through an awesome channel between the Old Man of Stoer and the mainland. Finished with some great ditch crawling and exploration at Oldany Island, our most picturesque campsite yet and very tropical. 

Day 5. 22 April. Oldany Island to near Kinberlochbervie, 35km

To Scourie to get weather info and plan Cape Wrath. The only window is Saturday and this means a 4.15am on the water start to get around. So onward through the Bad Call Islands to position us as far north as we can. A pod of dolphins here made our day!

Day 6. 23 April. Kinberlochbervie.

A day off for us all. (Except Roger, who woke up at 3.30am and then each 30 mins to see what time it will be light for us to leave tomorrow). Currently in a warm hotel in Kinberlochbie contemplating deserts. Life is good!!

The long wait .... Skye RDX 2013

This morning ..Wednesday I set off after a wet and breezy night to get an up date and a detailed forecast, for the next couple of days. The 10k walk was soon reduced after 10 minutes when I got lucky with a bus, and then back at the Old Inn for Wifi and a breakfast. The later had finished ... But a bacon and egg roll with a coffee was OK.. Happy days!

After many discussions and creative thinking both Zoe and Gary have decided to stick where we are and aim to get as far as we can. Rather than me go for the van and relocate, and attempt to make the most of each day.

Big thanks to Sonja for relaying the Blog updates and texting us weather forecasts, which have helped greatly with decisions. So how are we doing? Both Zoe and Gary have been doing a super job with the tidal planning, keeping hold of the big picture and looking at specifics at the same time. I was very impressed, on the evening of my demise while both ends of my body were expelling there contents, how they kept an open mind and created various plans and ideas. Really based on what I would be like in the morning!!

The tricky part now is not getting to comfortable in our strong and warm tents. Like that big climbing hold, you don't want to let go of ... unsure of the ground ahead and balancing decisions. For us its about keeping a close watch on any opportunities ..like Weds morning? There's a small window, which we currently intend to push our noses against and see what it looks like around the corner. It will be a head wind and big swell, but we have the option of returning to our camp if we're not happy. Then Thursday looks like its no paddle day and then good on Friday.

With about 130k to go to complete the loop, we need at least two good days, which currently looks like we haven't got .. Oh hum ....so our aim is to get to Eigol (?) and make the most of Fridays better forecast and explore the remainder of this stunning coastline ... hopefully ;)

So overall we are still hopeful, warm, refreshed, relaxed, reading and eating lots and hungry for some settled weather ...

Roger
roger chandler
www.coastalspirit.com

Sea kayaking course's
&
Sea kayak eXpedition training and development