Shetland 2018 (5) and Is your Want Greater than the Fear?

Shetland is impressive, It really is! For several years I heard this said, and I'm not sure what finally convinced me to book a ferry, but I'm super happy, I did. Massive caves, super long tunnels, Geos (pronounced Gee-Oh) is a narrow, deep cleft in a rock face, tide races, exposure and commitment, big ocean swell, stunning wildlife, unsettled weather, oh and remote. I've only been to Shetland twice, May 2020 was to be the third time.

This blog is about my first-time sea kayaking in Shetland and a few quick-fix Performance Psychology top tips that I use, with my self and those I work with. 

Blockbuster locations - My top three.

Papa Stoer on the West coast of the Shetland mainland is in my top three favourite destinations in the world. An island set 2 kilometres offshore, across a channel of flowing water and open to the Atlantic swell. Honeycombed smaller islands with tidal flow moving through them.  

The Drongs look like something out of a 'Wild West' movie. A group of granite sea stacks, offshore and if combined with the headland of Eshaness, make this a 'jaw-dropping' paddle. One narrow cave as we entered, showed a shaft of light from the back, as we explored further, the cave changed into a tunnel and opened up revealing a hidden cove. We landed for lunch, soaking up this beautiful environment.

The gannets of Noss. I've been privileged to see gannets before in their thousands, spiralling above and nesting on islands. But never previously on a vertical rock face as well as doing battle with Great Skuas. It's like a world war 2 movie 'dog fight' and its happening right in front of you. 

I guess it means I'll have to spend more time up there in 2021.  Our next course dates or sign up for our newsletter to be the first to know.

Performance Psychology - quick fixes

The body and mind are linked, so if we can make a change with our physiology, it will influence or psychology and visa versa.

Forcing a smile helps to shake off the stress, by relaxing the facial muscles and returns us to the moment - we can't be anxious and smile!

Diaphragmatically breathing is one of the most potent techniques for reversing the stress response. When anxious, our bodies tend to revert to shallow, rapid, chest breathing. Doing so keeps us in fight or flight mode, which is a sympathetic shock.  One technique is called box breathing: 

Box breathing: in through your nose for x4, hold x4, out through the mouth for x4, hold for x4 and repeat. 

Squeezing the paddle and creating tension in the body, then letting go, releases the pressure. Yul Brynner used to get stage fright, and he found that if he pushed really hard on a wall as if he wanted to knock it down, it helped calm his nerves, before a performance. The mind can perceive the sudden sense of relaxation within the body as the reduction of anxiety and stress. 

Self -Talk such as "Don't think! Play!" is a super cue for paddlers when faced with pressure, in a tide race, for example. When you find yourself overthinking and if you can't cut off your thoughts altogether, choose one word or a short phrase that directs your focus and instructs your actions.

Useful "cue words," or Self-talk such as "I'm coming up" after a capsize and beginning to roll. "Look for the eddy" for a paddler in the main flow or "what's important now?" with the paddler that just swam. Captures what you're trying to accomplish and helps you stay focused or re-focus on the task at hand.

Beat The Stress Focus – is a useful way to pull techniques together, with a plan.  B is for Breathing, T is self-Talk, S is Seeing – visualize/rehearse, and  F is Focusing your attention. Working with this model or creating your own can be helpful, in providing control in challenging and dynamic environments.

Two web sites which provide further useful thought, are worth exploring. The first is based on an actors perspective of Managing Stage Fright, and the second is Performance under Pressure, from a medical perspective, which has a lot of additional links.  It's one of the best sites I've found.

Which is greater?

If we now come back to my original question. Is your want more significant than your fear? If yes, from my perspective and experience, then the above techniques will be super productive. Hence the various methods are called 'coping strategies'. Your confidence has dropped, and you need to re-focus. Yes, they will need to be practised just like your stern rudder did. 

If your fear is more significant than your need and want, then it could suggest you've moved too quickly, maybe missed a level and not consolidated skills, experience and knowledge. The concept of comfort zones can be useful to consider. Stepping down a level to what you feel is suitable, so you can progress at your rate and address what's important. Re-focusing can be very productive and motivating.

The fear needs to be understood and addressed for any progress to be made.  Loss of control, then consider what would give you control back?  For example, understanding tidal planning and the 50/90 guide? Do you ever choose where you paddle? The relationship and impact between swell, wind and current?   Or for example, If its a fear of failing, ask your self: What aspect could you fail at? What's holding you back? What can you do about it? Remember the last blog about controlling the controlables?   

How too

Cross-training can be really useful. For example, If its lack of flexibility, then consider yoga or pilates, if its stamina, how about taking up, running, cycling, using a rowing machine, flat water race training or going swimming.  If it's becoming more dynamic with decision making and more short sharp burst of energy, consider white water paddling.

Keep in mind that progress could also be a sideways move.   This would mean understanding the triggers and what creates the anxiety so that you can avoid these in the future.  For example, when it gets windy, it's difficult to control my sea kayak.  How strong is the wind? Then consider paddling under that wind strength and get a good understanding of the various weather forecast so you gain some further control.

A more in-depth approach would be to consider a few Cognitive Behavioural Therapy (CBT) sessions.  This way you have an opportunity to develop further strategies to manage thoughts effectively, with a professional skilled in this area.  

Our time is precious, so make sure it's worthwhile, enjoyable and what we want it to be.  It's about investment. If we invest, we will reap the benefits. How much are you prepared to invest?

I hope to see you on the water very soon!

PS: Make sure you book a cabin, its worth it and adds to the whole experience arriving by boat. 

 

The Last Three Years - Part One

Sea kayaking North Wales, Anglesey - wind against tide on the Menai Straits.

A lot has gone on since my last blog, three years ago about Stand Up Paddleboarding (SUP) around Menorca.  What's happened since then and what's new? Over the next few weeks, I'll aim to update and share some information about what's been going on. Then I'll move to one blog once a month.

What I can tell you now is, 2017 was a pretty fantastic year!  

Kayak and Climb - NW Greenland Expedition and the area we paddled into 

Kayak and Climb - NW Greenland

Back in March 2017, I first mentioned my opportunity to go to NW Greenland. Good friend Olly Sanders had been many times before to Greenland, while for me it was to be my first time. The plan was to spend 20 days self-contained, locate new rock climbs and climb them! 

Once afloat, I found the first few days trying. I was used to having a goal with either a linear journey with a defined finish or a circumnavigation, which meant getting back to the start. We were looking for suitable, stable and firm rock to climb and ideally, bigger and more prominent rock faces so that multi-pitch routes could be created and climbed. Some days we paddled less than 10km, and we may have landed 4-5 times to walk into possible climbing venues. If we found something, we then looked for a campsite. The exploration I started to enjoy, it was a different approach, it had less pressure, and I began to relax.

What did we do for food? We shipped out to Greenland a 220lt barrel, with our crampons, ice ace, climbing racks, rope and 20 days of 2 person packs of food. The food packs included breakfast, lunch, snacks and dinner and were double bagged and tightly bound in gaffer tape to reduce their size. A fun element at the end of the day, was when we pulled out the next day's rations as neither of us knew what was in a pack. The variety was the key!

Roger Chandler - 'Looking on Greenland kayak and climb expedition ' -photo by Olly Sanders

We both were shocked by the amount of plastic we found on beaches and on one beach that we stayed for a few nights, we filled 7 IKEA bags of plastic. We burnt some of this, and more robust plastic we buried at the top of the beach. Sadly our feeling was that this had mostly come from local villages, where the waste tends to be burnt or not as the case may be. We also discovered, due to the location of the waste disposal facility rubbish can easily fall into the sea.

Seeing icebergs close up, from a sea kayak is pretty unique ( it was on my list of 50 things to do in my 50's) and the rock structures in the area are truly stunning. During the 20 days, we saw no whales but spotted a couple of hesitant and distant seals, many sea birds and of course the wonderful Arctic fox on our last nights camp was exceptional.

In total, we climbed three single pitch and three multi-pitch rock climbs (Olly did the leading), with two further summits achieved and my connection to the Arctic was born! 

I want to thank again the support we received from the Arctic Club and Olly for asking me, in the first place. You can see a further account by Olly regarding our expedition here.

It took me another two years to create a short film from my footage!

My next blog will look at the classic, sea kayak surf and tide race training courses, based on Anglesey, Wales. The opening photo above is of Anita over from Switzerland, enjoying the waves. We will consider what goes into a session and why the courses have become such a success. 

Menorca - a sea kayaking paradise and an open crossing back to Mallorca.

Following our successful paddle around Mallorca, we took a day off and managed to stay and catch up with my good friend Pete and his family.  This also allowed us to wash and sort out kit, charge phones/cameras and pause for a moment.  

Now I had heard of this but I hadn't really realised how significant this wind was ...

The strong Tramontana wind is a fairly regular feature of the region in all seasons except summer. This variant of the French Mistral wind blows NE-SW across the landscape for 3-12 days at a time, and can be bitter when the Pyrenees are covered in snow and ice. 

This we experienced the day after paddling on to the North coast of Mallorca, with big swell and increasing winds.  Yeah, it was cold too...

The forecast looked good for Tuesday and a ferry on that evening could also work.  We had the one trolly, so we would try and walk the kayaks on, one at a time.  Getting them on from Alcudia was fine and free, getting them off was more difficult!  When we arrived we had to move the sea kayaks as one unit and with full kit and 12lts of water that was going to be challenging. We got the impression the Boss guy wanted to go home!!

Theres a special feeling walking a sea kayak on to a ferry, which feels like a real adventure ...

Wishing we had brought two trollies ... after realising it was a 2km portage to the beach form the ferry port!!

Into the beautiful setting light of the day 

We played with the swell and the light on the wall, savouring the moment ...

Rounding the Southern tip, with the top light of the lighthouse and looking for a place to camp!!

Bay after bay just looked amazing and with so much wild camping potential

And yet more magical colour and clarity ...

The cliffs were smaller than Mallorca, but still stunning

Clear evidence of cave dwellings ...

A beach bar at Cala Binidall with Wifi for forecasts and a cool beer ... perfect!

Super little camp ...

Crossing the entrance of Mahon

Time for lunch ...

The final push back to our start point, and into a head wind, but with some fun swell

With the evening paddle on the first day and 3 further days we were around Menorca and to be honest i felt like going around again and this time much slower.  After Mallorca, finding places to easily camp/bivi was such a relief and the island was so green and softer.  We had been told that camp/bivi was almost part of the Menorcan culture and the problems were more with the incomers who now own property!!

We made it about 120km around, but again we were able to cross from headland to headland on the North coast, if you had to keep closer in the mileage would go up. 

We landed back at Ciutadella and discussed options.  I was super keen for the crossing, so headed off for more lunch type food and some more water, while Barry went off to the ferry port to clarify times.  We both met back at a cafe with Wifi and decided to find a sheltered bay, to camp again for the night and if the forecast held for the morning we would go for the crossing.  


Open Crossing to Mallorca

The wind was a f3 East, there about, but 3-4km limited viability.  Not ideal, but at least the wind was in a helpful direction.  The main channel was about 40km across so we felt 7 hours and that would be done, then it was about getting back to Alcudia and were my van was.  We set off on a bearing and after 1:30 hours we lost sight of land and worked on finding some rhythm ... as we left the shelter of the island swell got more confused and running at two different angles making my sea kayak more difficult to manage ...

It felt good to see the ferry from Mallorca ... 

The confused swell that was running ...

And now the ferry from Menorca ...

Now we hadn't been able to get a map that had both islands on.  This was the best we could do ... ;)


Around the 5 hour mark we saw Mallorca, but to be honest it was confusing and disorientating.  What part of the island was it?  I'd left my Mallorca map in the van.  Well it was sunny before and I could see the whole island from Menorca!

Around 7hours, 30 minutes we had reached the Southern headland of Alcudia Bay and now the job was to paddle and find the van.  10 hours 40 and over 60 km paddled,  the job was done.  Wet tired and hungry we changed and loaded the kayaks.

Pleased to be in dry clothes and on the way to find some food.  Happy days  ;)

Big thanks to P&H Custom Sea Kayaks for the Cetus mv and Hilleberg the Tent Maker for my solo tent.  For support from Reed Chillcheater for my deck and cockpit cover, Mitchel blades for my paddle and Kokatat for paddle wear.

And once again Mr Shaw, it twas fun fella  ;)

Roger

PS:  keep your eyes open for a sea kayaking expedition back out to Menorca in October 2016, with warm seas and settled winds - email me if interested - roger@coastalspirit.com

Paddling around Mallorca 2016

Back in 2007 when i attempted to paddle around Mallorca with good friend Pete Evans, we climbed a lot together, managing 2 weeks in the French alp's and even sailed across the English Channel but never done the sea kayaking thing together.  Well we had some mixed and mainly bad weather and we run out of time but we did manage to paddle the North coast.  Which is truly amazing!!

So when i was talking with Barry Shaw about my initial thoughts about a solo trip he was interested and suggested the Balearic's.  I didn't need much convincing and over the next week or so, as we created a plan.

It was over 1500m drive and two ferries (2 hours and then 8 or so).  We decided to go for Dover to Dunkirk and drive through France to  Spain and get the 2nd ferry from Barcelona to Alcudia on Mallorca as it was 100 euros cheaper.  We left at 0500 on the Saturday and arrived on the Monday morning at 0500, and looked for someway to park up and wait for the morning to begin!

Driving on down and some super cloud formations

Now with over 400 photos, yep ... its difficult to decide on those that paint our story.  So Ive done my best and hope you enjoy our adventure.  I'll try and keep the words to a minimum!!

We started on the SW side of the most Southerly point and this was our first lighthouse of many!!

Thankfully we explored and stopped at this small Cala, which made for a perfect
nights camp and with enough time to dry kit!

As we moved up the East coast (were going anti clockwise), we had some super assistance form the wind.

Honestly it is that kind of blue ...

This magic blow hole was so much fun ...

Day 2 had been a long day.  Not through choice, just that we couldn't find a wild enough camp.  
Time to be up early then!!

The variety and colour along the coast was fantastic

just had to be done!

having a floating break before crossing the bay of Alcudia

Whoop, whoop... Cap de Formentor, the most Northerly point

As the North coast unfolds, it was time to look for a camp!  

Do your stuff Mr Baz Dundee....

Cala Figuera and my trusted kit!

Next morning was chilly and atmospheric!!

Heading for Cala Sant Vincent for more water

Just leaving Cala Sant Vincent, in an increasing swell and wind ... we turned back, due to the next section of coastline was to be the most committing, with no landing until Sa Calobra, which even then we were unsure about.

The next day, rest and ready

The morning sun really brought the coast alive ...

We had a gentler increasing wind on our backs and smiled our way along the coastline ...

Entrance to Torrent de Pareis

Just trying to capture the height!!

The cost was that good  ;)

Getting a fly by with a large flock of Shearwater's -it was such a great sweep through  

One of many we passed along the way

Now on the SW side and on the way to the Bay of Palma!

We found it ... just a little to close to Magaluf!

Beautiful start to the next day, although 45 minutes into the crossing and the wind suddenly increased to Bf4 -5 the f5 gusting f6, offer and out of the bay!!  Thank fully 1 hour latter the aggressive front had passed  ...

We can get this at home ...

Final on the water lunch ...

Seven days in total which wasn't through choice.   It was difficult to find wild camp spots and we found out afterwards, you can get fined for wild camping!

We made the distance to be 280km although we tended to go from headland to headland and overall we were fairly lucky with being able to do that

Big thanks to Hilleberg  for the solo tent, Reed for the deck and cockpit cover and P&H Custom Sea kayaks for the demo Cetus mv - much appreciated Mathew  ;)  Further thanks to the support of  Mitchel Blades  for my paddle and Kokatat, for paddle wear.

And nice one Barry - thanks for the company  ;)

Roger

Having a good run along the coast in my Cetus ...

Claa Sant Vincent and a 4km loop before returning ...

Landing in Cala Sant Vincent